My First Custom Keyboard - Learnings & Advice to Newbies
When Auckland went into lock-down in August 2021, I decided to get myself a custom keyboard after being suckered in by various videos by Glarses and Hipyo Tech.
I spend so much time at my computer for work and personal projects I thought it’d be a worthwhile endeavour to make something I could enjoy 12+ hours a day.
This post will primarily serve two purposes. I’m writing about it just for my record, and the second is to help any other would-be entrant to the hobby to outline my key learnings and share things I would’ve wanted to know before I started.
My Keyboard
My keyboard itself is what I’d call “semi-finished”. I purchased a lot of stuff currently sitting at the office. As I’m not allowed to return to work until the pandemic dies down a bit, I had to reorder some parts to use the keyboard in the short term. The postal service (NZ Post) also managed to make my life a living hell during this lockdown by actually losing my GMMK pro and delaying every package by weeks at a time.
At the time of writing, this is my setup:
- GMMK Pro Hotswappable Keyboard
- C3 TKC Tangerines
- Glorious Rainforest PBT Keycaps
- Durock V2 Stabilisers
- Durock Switch Films
I’m waiting on some MT3 keycaps and some other neat stuff to bolt on this keyboard, once I eventually receive those, I’ll likely make another post.
Why Make a Custom Mechanical Keyboard?
Suppose you ever accidentally get suggested a custom mechanical keyboard video on YouTube. In that case, your immediate reaction will probably be something along the lines of “What the hell is this person talking about”. The hobby looks at assembling and modifying custom keyboard components to achieve a fantastic aesthetic look and sound.
A custom mechanical keyboard is like any other luxury item; they are ultimately pointless. Just like buying a fancy watch, you get it because the aesthetics and feel of the product feel better despite having the same function as a membrane keyboard. Building a custom mechanical keyboard lets you tailor your keyboard to exactly your taste and preferences, which I think is pretty cool.
The Summary
I ran into a few massive hurdles straight away that made entry into the hobby a little more challenging than I expected.
- The first one was the steep learning curve of the hobby.
- Being located in New Zealand meant that everything was insanely expensive or a pain in the ass to get.
- Lastly, anytime I watched a video, I instantly got buyers regret, cancelled my order and ordered an upgraded version of whatever I was purchasing.
One of the barriers to this hobby is the culture, vocabulary, and knowledge built around the subject. As an outsider looking in, it was pretty challenging to get a base understanding of what was going on and discussed.
My initial reaction to the custom mechanical keyboard community is that it’s apparent that everyone who partakes in the community has a zeal about mechanical keyboards, which is very admirable. However, there is pretty abundant and conspicuous elitism in the community, which may be off-putting for some.However, the good news is that as you dive a bit deeper into the community, you find that the elitism is over represented. There have been multiple times where I’ve asked for help or advice, and I received beneficial and friendly counsel each time.
Once you get your head around the terminology, the mechanics of assembling and modifying a keyboard is straightforward. If you purchase a hot-swappable keyboard like me, the only thing you’ll need to learn is how to lubricate switches and stabilisers.
The Lingo
To cut things short, as a newbie to the subject, here are some of the key phrases that you need to know
- Switch - These are what the keycap sits on top.
- Plate - The plate sits on top of the PCB.
- PCB - This is the actual circuit board of the keyboard.
- Lube - Lubricant. Don’t watch custom keyboard videos in front of your spouse, or they’ll ask you, “Why does that person keep talking about lube”.
- Krytox 205G0 - This is the gold standard of switch and stabiliser lubricant. It’s a viscous lubricant that you’ll be applying liberally on everything.
- Krytox GPL 105 - This is what you imagine when you think of lubricant. Very liquid-y, I used this to lubricate my springs.
- Stab / Stabiliser - Stabilisers are attachments that surround your modifiers keys and your space bar. Because these keys are big, these stabilisers provide support for those keys.
- KBD - KBDFans - they sell lots of keyboard stuff.
- PBT - PBT is a type of plastic used for keycaps. These keycaps have more of a premium feel than ABS plastic. They don’t shine over time and sound different than ABS keycaps.
- ABS - These are the keycaps you’ll be used to. These come standard with 99% of keyboards you can buy at a store. They shine over time and have a ‘wetter’ feel.
- QMK/VIA - A type of open-source keyboard firmware that allows you to remap your keyboard easily.
- Hot-swappable - A type of PCB that doesn’t require soldering. You can plug your switches directly into the PCB.
- Films - Switch films are a plastic sheet that sits between the top and bottom housing of your switch to make the switch sound and feel better.
- Stem Holder - The stem of a switch is super tiny, and if you have big hands like me, they are awful to hold. A stem holder lets you clamp onto the switch and hold it. I used a mechanical pencil for my stem holder.
- Linear - Linear switches give you a smooth downwards press.
- Tactile - Tactile switches have a little bit of a bump in the middle of the end of a keypress. The typical examples you can find on store-bought keyboards would be MX Brown and Blue.
- Group Buys - When you’re looking for key cap sets for your keyboard you may across the term ‘group buys’. These are massive expressions of interest/preorders for things that haven’t been manufactured yet. Expect to wait for a long time if you’re doing one of these.
Lubricating & Filming Switches
Lubricating and filming a switch improves the smoothness and the sound of the switch. The entire process took me approximately four hours; it was an incredibly tedious process, and honestly, I hated it.
I won’t detail how to lubricate a switch as there are already some great online resources that go into these in-depth. Here is my viewing recommendation.
The Takeaway
Rather than explain how to lube a switch, I thought I’d share my key learnings from lubing all my switches:
- Order spares. I broke about eight switches during the trial-and-error phase of assembling the keyboard. If you need 84, buy at least 90 to give yourself some breathing room.
- Do the process in batches. There are various steps in lubricating a single switch; completing each step for 10-15 switches at a time helped significantly with my consistency. Doing the entire process for a single switch one at a time made me less consistent.
- Over-lubing is a lot less of a risk if you have linears (as opposed to tactiles). The conventional wisdom is that you should use lube sparingly the first time you lube switches; I went ham with my lubing, and it turned out alright.
- If you have the disposable income, I’d seriously recommend you just to buy lubed/filmed switches from Etsy or something. With that being said, it was a cool experience overall (despite how tedious it was).
Tuning the Stabilisers
Replacing the stabilisers on my GMMK Pro was honestly a bit of a nightmare. If you’ve done some pre-order reading, you’ll see many people recommend replacing the subpar factory GOAT stabilisers with Durock v2 stabilisers or something similar. You may also read that the plate doesn’t fit well when you have these stabilisers in.
“Doesn’t fit well” is a vast understatement of how much of a pain in the ass it is to reassemble the GMMK pro with non-factory stabilisers. Frankly, the plate will not fit at all without a gentle amount of “sweaty forcing the plate onto the PCB”.
The Takeaway
So my advice to those who’ve purchased a GMMK Pro and decided to replace the factory stabilisers:
- Ignore that part of your brain that’s screaming, “you’re breaking it!” and keep forcing that plate onto the board.
- Either align the top or bottom tabs, then work your way downwards or upwards. Starting in the middle will not work.
- Don’t panic when you see the number of tiny screws in the GMMK pro.
In regards to lubing and tuning the stabilisers, I’d recommend this great video.
Flashing QMK onto GMMK Pro on Linux
There isn’t many guides on how to use QMK with Linux so I thought I’d do a quick write up on how to do it.
pip3 install qmk
qmk setup
Set up will create a folder at ~/qmk_firmware
. This will download all required dependencies and other things that qmk needs.
sudo cp /home/andryo/qmk_firmware/util/udev/50-qmk.rules /etc/udev/rules.d/ ## reboot after this
qmk config user.keyboard=gmmk/pro/ansi
qmk new-keymap
vim ~/qmk_firmware/keyboards/gmmk/pro/ansi/keymaps/<name>/keymap.c
At this point, you’ll see something like this:
Once you’ve modified your keybinds to your preference, load the keyboard into bootloader mode and then run the following:
qmk flash
Closing Thoughts
That’s all the salient thoughts I had jotted down in regards to my first custom keyboard build. Overall, I really enjoyed it and can’t wait to do it again. My wife wants a custom keyboard now so I have the excuse to build another fairly soon.
I hope for those who stumble across this post, I hope the information provided has been useful.
Good luck!